Monday, November 16, 2009

Week 9 - 16, 17 & 18th Nov

Te Anau & Milford Sound
Wed Nov 18th, 2009

Our alarm goes off at 6:30 and we get up to get ready for our day away. Today we are going to Milford Sound on the Go Milford bus from our Top 10 Park.

The road to Milford Sound is 119 km’s long. It runs along Lake Te Anau (60 kms long, 300 m’s deep) then rises through farmland, over mountain streams, through beech forests, past mountain lakes and into the divide. At this point, a tunnel cuts through the 1270 m of mountain to emerge on the other side and drop through a series of switchbacks to the edge of the fiord. We decided not to drive as there was a bylaw stating you had to have chains for your tires and then we saw that you had to pull over and prove you can use them. I think the bus was the way to go.

Our bus driver, Russ, takes every opportunity to tell us what he knows of the history of the area, the topography, tidbits of the strange mountain parrot, the Kea, and he warms us with his stories of history of this road. It is a wonderful drive and we enjoy every moment.

On the track we make a few stops….Eglinton Valley, to view the first great look at the mountains, mirror lakes, to view the mirror like water collected in the body of the mirror lakes, knobs flat, to have a biobreak and read the literature on the displays provided, lake Gunn, to take pictures of the mirror like surface in the lake (a rarity says Russ), the flats, to take more mountain pictures. At one point Russ says “look at that” and out of the front of the bus we can see a duster sliding off the mountain (small mountain avalanche). This is also a rarity as they usually happen when no one is around. In our case we see two of them in the same trip (wow!!). Also along the road we can see evidence of many other avalanches that covered the road.

Further along the trek, we make an additional stop at the entrance to the Homer tunnel. The Homer Tunnel is the road link to the Sound. Without it you would either need to cross the mountain top or sail in by boat.

On the other side of the tunnel, we are in Fiordland and on to Milford Sound. The road drops through steep switch backs and we are back into the lush forests of the sound.

We make another stop at a place called the Chasm. Here water runs from the hard granite mountain to the softer rock creating spectacular pools of water and a water fall.

We board the boat, the Lady of the Sounds, and off we go down the 16 km long Milford Sound. Lunch is served as the boat leaves and it is very nice. As soon as we are done eating we go up to the roof top deck to enjoy the spectacular view on this beautiful sunny day.

Along the way our boat guide proves a running commentary on the sound, its waterfall features, the sea life and its treasures. We enjoy view, the wildlife, and a half hour stop at an underwater observation platform where we can see into the sound at a depth of 10 m. What a great day!

On the way home, at the tunnel stop, we see the Kea up close again. What a large green parrot. I slept on the way back to Te Anau.

Tomorrow we are going to Invercargill.



Queenstown, Kingston, Garston Hotel, Te Anau
Tuesday Nov 17th, 2009


Tuesday morning, we are up at the crack of dawn heading to Te Anau.

The road climbs from Frankton along the side of Lake Wakatipu. This is a huge lake that we have followed for two days now, first to Glenorchy and now towards Te Anau . It is L shaped. It is ringed by mountains on all sides and is just beautiful. Eventually we get to Kingston at the foot of the lake and we say goodbye to Lake Wakatipu.

Kingston was a railroading town at one time and we stop in to find a flat white but there are no coffee shops open to stop at. We view the lake from the end of the town wharf.

The mountains turn into high rolling hills and not far down the road we pass a small hotel called the Garston Hotel. It has an old fashion 20’s and 30s’ look to it, so we turn around and head back to check it out. It is called Al’s CafĂ© and has been a working hotel since the 1800’s. Here we have muffins and flat whites…what a surprise this place turns out to be. My savory muffin is served with hot roasted vegetables and caramelized red onions on top of the hot muffin. Alan’s chocolate-blueberry muffin is served hot as well with extra chocolate sauce and rich whipped cream. We didn’t have lunch after this!

Tonight we have a nice cabin in a very packed park. This is one of the spots everyone seems to go to. There were over 100 campervans in the park and the kitchen was packed. We book the all day Milford Sound trip, which includes a bus ride, boat trip and barbecue. Tomorrow we will have to be up early, but at least they pick us up at the park.

We haven’t had a hike so Alan and I walk around the town, through the rugby fields to the harbour and along the beach back to the cabin. The walk was lovely, but there is not much to offer in this town.




Queenstown, Glenorchy, Kinloch
Monday Nov 16th, 2009


Today we drive up through the snow covered mountain ranges to a small town called Glenorchy. This is the area where they filmed the Lord of the Rings movie.

Lake Wakatipu snakes between the mountain range, to our right, a
nd the road winds its way along the side of the mountain. The scenery is breathtaking and we stop many times to take pictures. It is just so beautiful much like the Canadian Rockies.

The road from
Queenstown to Glenorchy is 44 kms and it takes a bit to get there as there is lots of construction along the way . There are lots of slips, which are washouts and the road is twisty and windy. We drive around the town and end up down at the wharf where we have our picnic lunch.


After lunch, we wander out onto the wharf and take in the scenery. It is very chilly and Katherine has bundled up in nice woolen hat and scarf. Past the wharf is a lagoon trail. It is beautiful, winding through the trees, along the river then over to this huge wetland. Throughout the wetland are board walks that you follow with benches to sit and view a different mountain scene. There are snow capped mountains all around us. It is wonderful.

Further up the coast is a small place called Kinloch. The road crosses the Dart river. Shortly after we stop a truck pulls up and out hops a sheep famer. He says, that when the weather is
bad, the boating company in town, Dart River Excursions, can’t always get back onto the lake or down to Glenorchy. They use his property at the bridge to drop off passengers. Unfortunately, they often forget to shut the gate from the sheep’s pasture. He took us down and showed us around. We had wondered why there was so many loose sheep on the road!

We talk to this fellow for a while about NZ, and Cana
da. He has been to the Calgary stampede! On his suggestion we keep driving to Kinloch, it is beautiful he says. So we go on. The road quickly narrows to one lane, and turns to gravel, but we continue on. At the end we find a little lodge and stop in for flat whites and chips. It is a quaint place and we enjoy our stop.

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